Collaborative Research: Swash Zone Dynamics Driven by Obliquely Incident Waves (Nimish Pujara, Jack Puleo; NSF; 10/01/2022 – 09/30/2025)

Breaking wave-induced rapid beach profile evolution in the inner surf and swash zones (Ryan Mieras, Blair Johnson, Tom Hsu, Jack Puleo; USCRP; 10/01/2023 – 09/30/2026)

Hydrodynamics and Beach Morphology During Extreme Events (Jack Puleo; Delaware Sea Grant; 02/01/2018 – 01/31/2020)

• Coogan, J.S., B.M. Webb,. S. Smallegan, and J.A. Puleo. Accepted. Geomorphic changes measured on Dauphin Island, AL during Hurricane Nate, Shore and Beach.
• Borrell, S. and J.A. Puleo, Accepted. In situ hydrodynamic and morphodynamics measurements during extreme events, Shore and Beach, 87(4), 23-30

Collaborative Research: Physics of Dune Erosion during Extreme Surge and Wave Events (Jack Puleo, Tom Hsu, Rusty Feagin, Meagan Wengrove, and Dan Cox; NSF; 08/01/2018 – 07/31/2021)

• Zhang, J., B. Tsai, Y. Rafati, T.-J Hsu, and J.A. Puleo. 2024. Cross-shore hydrodynamics and morphodynamics modeling in a shallow surf zone using XBeach, Coastal Engineering
• Tsai, B. T.-J Hsu, S.-B Lee, M. Pontiki, J.A. Puleo, M. Wengrove. 2024. Large Eddy Simulation of Cross-Shore Hydrodynamics under Random Waves in the Surf and Swash Zones, Journal of Geophysical Research – Oceans.
• Bond, H., M. Wengrove, J.A. Puleo, M. Pontiki, M. Evans, and R. Feagin. 2023. Beach and dune subsurface hydrodynamics and their influence on the formation of dune scarps, Journal of Geophysical Research – Earth Surface.
• Pontiki, M., J.A. Puleo, H. Bond, M. Wengrove, R.A. Feagin, T.-J. Hsu, T. Huff. 2023. Geomorphic response of a coastal berm to storm surge and the importance of sheet flow dynamics, Journal of Geophysical Research – Earth Surface, 128, e2022JF006948, https://doi.org/10.1029/2022JF006948.
• Feagin, R., R. Silva, J.A. Puleo, J. Figlus, R. Innocenti, H. Bond, M. Wengrove, T. Huff, P. Lomonaco, B. Tsai, M. Pontiki, and V. Chavez. 2023. Does vegetation accelerate coastal dune erosion during extreme events, Science Advances
• Pontiki, M., J.A. Puleo, H. Bond, M. Wengrove, R.A. Feagin, T.-J. Hsu, T. Huff. Revision, Geomorphic response of a coastal berm to storm surge and the importance of sheet flow dynamics, Journal of Geophysical Research – Earth Surface
• Rafati, Y., T.J. Hsu, J. Calantoni, and J.A. Puleo. 2022. Entrainment and Transport of Well-Sorted and Mixed Sediment Under Wave Motion, https://doi.org/10.1029/2022JC018686
• Innocenti, R.A., R.A> Feagin, B.R. Charbonneau, J. Figlus, P. Lomanaco, M. Wengrove, J.A. Puleo, T.P. Huff, Y. Rafati, T.-J Hsu, M.V. Moragues, B. Tsai, T. Boutton, M. Pontiki, J. Smith. 2021. The effects of plant structure and flow proprties on the physical response of coastal dune plants to wind and wave run-up, Estuarine, Coastal, and Shelf Science, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ecss.2021.107556
• Rutten, J., A. Torres-Freyermuth, J.A. Puleo. 2021. Uncertainty in runup predictions on natural beaches using XBeach nonhydrostatic, Coastal Engineering.
• Torres-Freyermuth, A., J.C. Pintado-Patino, A. Pedrozo-Acuna, J.A. Puleo and T.E. Baldock. 2019. Runup uncertainty on planar beaches, Ocean Dynamics.
• Howe, D., C.E. Blenkinsopp, I.L. Turner, T.E. Baldock, and J.A. Puleo. In Review. Direct measurements of bed shear stress under swash flows on steep laboratory slopes at medium to prototype scales, Journal of Marine Science and Engineering, 7(10), 358
• Puleo, J.A., D. Cristaudo, A. Torres-Freyermuth and G. Masselink. 2020. The role of alongshore flows on inner surf and swash zone hydrodynamics on a dissipative beach, Continental Shelf Research, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.csr.2020.104134
• Heiss, J.W., H. A. Michael, and J.A. Puleo. 2020. Groundwater-surface water exchange in the intertidal zone detected by hydrologic and coastal oceanographic measurements, Hydrological Processes, https://doi.org/10.1002/hyp.13825

Beach Nourishment Design Practice in Delaware: Modifications to Beach and Surf Zone Characteristics (Jack Puleo and Dave Kriebel; DNREC; 08/21/2014 – 08/31/2016)

Collaborative Research: Large-scale Laboratory Investigation and Numerical Modeling of Sheet Flow Sediment Transport Dynamics across a Surf Zone Sand Bar (Dan Cox, Jack Puleo and Tom Hsu; NSF; 02/01/2014 – 01/31/2017)

• Mieras, R., J.A. Puleo, D. Anderson, D.T. Cox and T.J. Hsu. 2017. Large-scale experimental observations of sheet flow on a sandbar under skewed-asymmetric waves, Journal of Geophysical Research, 122, 5022-5045, 10.1002/2016JC012438.
• Anderson, D., D. Cox, R. Mieras, J.A. Puleo, and T.J. Hsu. 2017. Observations of wave-induced pore pressure gradients and bed level response on a surf zone sandbar, Journal of Geophysical Research, 122, 5169-5193, 10.1002/2016JC012557.
• Kim, Y., Z. Zhou, T.J. Hsu and J.A. Puleo. 2017. Large eddy simulation of dam-break driven swash on a rough-planar beach, Journal of Geophysical Research, 10.1002/2016JC012366.
• Fromant, G., R.S. Mieras, T. Revil-Baudard, J.A. Puleo, D. Hurther, J. Chauchat. 2018. On Bedload and Suspended Load Measurement Performances in Sheet Flows Using Acoustic and Conductivity Profilers, Journal of Geophysical Research – Earth Surface, 123 (10), 2546-2562
• Mieras, R.S., J.A. Puleo, D. Anderson, T-J. Hsu, D. Cox and J. Calantoni. 2019. Relative contributions of bed load and suspended load to sediment transport under skewed-asymmetric waves on a sandbar crest, Journal of Geophysical Research, https://doi.org/10.1029/2018JC014564
• Kim, Y., R.S. Mieras, Z. Cheng, D. T.–J. Hsu, J.A. Puleo, D. Cox. 2019. A numerical study of sheet flow driven by velocity and acceleration skewed near-breaking waves on a sandbar using SedWaveFoam, Coastal Engineering, 152

Nearshore Coastal dynamics on a Sea-breeze dominated micro-tidAL beach (Jack Puleo and Alec Torres-Freyermuth; UNAM; 01/01/2013-12/31/2015)

• Chardon-Maldonado, P., J.C. Pintado-Patino and J.A. Puleo. 2015. Advances in swash zone research: Small-scale hydrodynamics and sediment transport processes. Coastal Engineering, doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2015.10.008.
• Puleo, J.A., A. Torres-Freyermuth. 2015. The second international workshop on swash-zone processes. Coastal Engineering, doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2015.09.007
• Heiss, J.W., J.A. Puleo, W.J. Ullman, H.A. Michael. 2015. Coupled surface-subsurface hydrologic measurements reveal recharge and discharge dynamics across the swash zone of a sandy beach. Water Resources Research, doi:10.1002/2015WR017395.
• Pintado-Patino, J.C., A. Torres-Freyermuth, J.A. Puleo, D. Pokrajac. 2015. On the role of infiltration and exfiltration in swash zone boundary layer dynamics in the swash zone. Journal of Geophysical Research, doi:10.1002/2015JC010806.
• Inch, K., G. Masselink, J.A. Puleo, P. Russell and D.Conley. 2015. An investigation of cross-shore velocity profiles, bed shear stress and friction in the swash zone of a high energy, macrotidal beach, Continental Shelf Research, dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.csr.2015.04.006.
• Chardon-Maldonado, P., J.A. Puleo and J. Figlus. In Review. Inner-surf and swash-zone morphodynamics during accretive conditions on a steep sloping beach, Continental Shelf Research.
• Martins, K., C. E. Blenkinsopp, H. E. Power, B. Bruder, J. A. Puleo, and E. W. J. Bergsma. Accepted. High-resolution monitoring of wave transformation in the surf zone using a LiDAR scanner array, Coastal Engineering
• Figlus, J., Song, Y. K., Chardon-Maldonado, P., and Puleo, J. A. 2017. Ridge-runnel and swash dynamics field experiment on a steep meso-tidal engineered beach: numerical model simulation of ridge accretion. In Proceedings of International Society of Polar and Ocean Engineers Conference. San Francisco, CA: ISOPE

Barrier Dynamics Experiment (BARDEX II)  (Gerd Masselink, Ian Turner, Daniel Conley, Gerben Ruessink, Ana Matias, Bruno Castelle, Jack A. Puleo, Chris Blenkinsopp; HydraLab IV; 05/1/2012 – 02/28/2014)

• Masselink, G., A. Ruju, D. Conley, I. Turner, G. Ruessink, A. Matias, C. Thompson, B. Castelle, J. A. Puleo, V. Citerone and G. Wolters. 2015. Large-scale barrier dynamics experiment II (BARDEX II): experimental design, instrumentation, test programme and data set. Coastal Engineering, doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2015.07.009
• Ruju,A., D. Conley, G. Masselink, M. Austin, J.A. Puleo, T. Lanckriet, D. Foster. 2015. Boundary layer dynamics under large-scale laboratory Conditions. Coastal Engineering, doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2015.08.001.
• Ruju, A., D. Conley, G. Masselink and J.A. Puleo. 2016, Sediment transport dynamics in the swash zone under large-scale laboratory conditions. Continental Shelf Research, doi:10.1016/j.csr.2016.03.015
• Ruessink, B.G.  C. Blenkinsopp, J. Brinkkemper, B. Castelle, B. Dubarbier, F. Grasso, J. A. Puleo, T. Lanckriet, G. Masselink. 2015. Sandbar and beachface evolution on a prototype coarse sandy barrier. Coastal Engineering, doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2015.11.005.
• Brinkkemper, J.A. T. Lanckriet, F. Grasso, J.A. Puleo, B.G. Ruessink. In Press. Observations of turbulence within the surf and swash zone of a field-scale sandy laboratory beach. Coastal Engineering, doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2015.07.006
• Puleo, J.A., T. Lanckriet, D. Conley and D. Foster. In Review. Sediment transport partitioning in the swash zone of a large-scale laboratory beach. Coastal Engineering, doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2015.11.001
• Turner, I.L., G.C. Rau, M.S. Andersen, M.J. Austin, J.A. Puleo and G. Masselink. 2013. Coastal sand barrier hydrology – observations from the BARDEX II prototype-scale laboratory experiment, Journal of Coastal Research, SI65, 1886-1891

Investigating gravel distributions from Rehoboth Beach to Cape Henlopen (Jack Puleo and Ping Wang; DNREC; 07/01/2010 – 06/30/2012).

• T. M. Roberts, P. Wang, and J. A. Puleo, “Storm-driven cyclic beach morphodynamics of a mixed sand and gravel beach along the Mid-Atlantic Coast, USA,” Marine Geology, vol. 346, pp. 403-421, 2013.

Swash Zone Sediment Transport (Jack Puleo, NSF CAREER, 03/01/2009 – 05/01/2015).

• Lanckriet, T. and J.A. Puleo. 2015. A semi-analytical model for sheet flow sediment transport in the swash zone, Journal of Geophysical Research, 120 (2), 1333-1352.
• Puleo, J.A., T. Lanckriet, C. Blenkinsopp. 2014. Bed level fluctuations in the inner surf and swash zone of a dissipative beach, Marine Geology, 349, 99-112.
• Puleo, J.A., C. Blenkinsopp, D. Conley, G. Masselink, I.L. Turner, P. Russell, D.   Buscombe, D. Howe, T. Lanckriet, R. McCall and T. Poate. 2014. A comprehensive field study of swash-zone processes, Part 1: Experimental design with examples of hydrodynamic and sediment transport measurements, Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering. INVITED
• Lanckriet, T., J.A. Puleo, G. Masselink, I.L. Turner, D. Conley, C. Blenkinsopp and P. Russell. 2014. A Comprehensive Field Study of Swash-Zone Processes, Part 2: Sheet Flow Sediment Concentrations During Quasi-Steady Backwash, Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering. INVITED
• Lanckriet, T., J.A. Puleo. 2013. Near-bed turbulence dissipation measurements in the inner surf and swash zone, Journal of Geophysical Research, 118 (12), 6634-6647
• Torres-Freyermuth, A., J. A. Puleo and D. Pokrajac. 2013. Modeling swash-zone hydrodynamics and shear stresses on planar slopes using Reynolds-Averaged Navier–Stokes equations, Journal of Geophysical Research, 118, doi:10.1002/jgrc.20074.
• Lanckriet, T. J.A. Puleo, and N. Waite. 2013. A conductivity concentration profiler for sheet flow sediment transport, IEEE Journal of Oceanic Engineering, 38, 55-70.
• Puleo, J.A., Lanckriet, T.M. and P. Wang. 2012. Nearbed cross-shore velocity profiles, bed shear stress and friction on the foreshore of a microtidal beach, Coastal Engineering, 68, 6-16.
• Puleo, J.A., J.W.C., Faries, M. Davidson, and B. Hicks. 2010. A conductivity sensor for nearbed concentration profiling, Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology, 27, 397-408.

Quantifying Short-Term Morphologic Evolution and Alongshore Sediment Transport Rates at Cape Henlopen, DE Using Remote Sensing and Rapid-Response GPS-Equipped Vehicles (Jack Puleo; DE SeaGrant; 02/01/2009 – 01/31/2012)

• Lindemer, C.A. N.G. Plant, J.A. Puleo, D. M. Thompson. 2010. Numerical Simulation of a Low-lying Barrier Island’s Morphological Response to Hurricane Katrina, Coastal Engineering, 57, 985-995.
• Puleo, J.A. 2010. Estimating alongshore sediment transport and the nodal point location on the Delaware-Maryland Coast, Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 136, 135.

Evaluation of Wind and Wave Processes Critical in Sustaining Beach Backshore Environments (Karl Nordstrom, Nancy Jackson and Jack Puleo; NJ SeaGrant; 07/01/2008 – 09/30/2010)

• Nordstrom, K.F., N.L. Jackson, K.H. Korotky, J.A. Puleo. 2010. Aeolian transport rates across raked and unraked beaches on a developed coast, Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, doi:10.1002/esp.2105.

Quantifying Storm and Seasonal Morphologic Variability of Delaware Bay Capes (Jack Puleo; UDRF; 06/01/2007 – 05/31/2008)

ONRG Science and Technology Engagement Program (STEP): Support Request for International Collaboration on Plan Development for an Integrated Swash Zone Field Study (Jack Puleo; ONR Global; 05/2005)

The Effect of Bubbles on Optical Backscatter Sensors (Jack Puleo; ONR; 10/01/2003 – 09/30/2005)

• Puleo, J.A., R.V. Johnson, T. Butt, T.N. Kooney, and K.T. Holland. 2006. The effect of bubbles on optical backscatter sensors, Marine Geology, 230, 87-97.
• Puleo, J.A., T.N. Kooney and R.V. Johnson. 2004. Laboratory generation of air bubble curtains of various sizes and distributions, Review of Scientific Instruments, 75, 4558-4563.