Italy: Sorrento and Herculaneum

Submitted by Kathryn Sigafoos on the 2022 winter session program in Italy sponsored by the Department of Linguistics and Cognitive Science…

Reflecting on my first week in the quaint, coastal town of Sorrento, Italy, has allowed me to sift through subconscious observations I have been making throughout the course of this journey. With its ancient cobblestone streets, riddled with deep crevices and narrow alleys, navigation and transportation in Sorrento has been anything, but typical in comparison to American roadways. Upon arriving in Sorrento, the lack of speed limit signs, dotted yellow lines, lanes, turn signal usage, and large vehicles was immediately apparent. Cars are compact due to the slender avenues through which they must traverse, and one of the most common forms of transportation is the Vespa, or motor scooter (which are allowed to be driven at the age of 14). Crosswalks are rare, and locals scarcely adhere to them while strolling through the square. I have witnessed (and firsthand experienced) the slamming brakes of a Vespa avoiding collision with someone while veering around a sharp corner street.

The Marina near our hotel in Sorrento, Italy

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

While walking, I have seen more than a few stray dogs and cats, circling the same square for days. This is an unusual sight in America, as typically animal control or a dog shelter would be called to collect homeless animals; however, it does not seem to be as prevalent an issue here.

A stray dog wandering the streets of Sorrento

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Laundry hangs, swinging in the breeze from the ornate balconies since owning a dryer in Italy is quite uncommon. The orange trees which dot the roads and pathways are striking, as are the lemon trees which often accompany them. Limoncello, a popular alcoholic beverage made with sugar and lemon zest, is a common drink enjoyed in Sorrento, made with fresh lemons from the trees.

Orange trees in Sorrento, Italy
A lemon tree at Villa Ida, from which they make the famous homemade limoncello

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Common dishes which I have enjoyed upon arrival include insalata caprese (fresh tomatoes, basil, and mozzarella made from Buffalo milk), gelato, croissants, scialatielli con vongole (clams with pasta), different types of fish (often served with the head and eyes intact), and of course lots of pizza margherita. The dining experience often lasts a few hours, including several courses of food and utmost attention to detail provided by the waiters. Unlike in America, being an Italian waiter is a profession, requiring skill, knowledge, and often a family history in the business. Tipping is another major cultural difference since tips in Italian businesses are never expected, but always appreciated. There is no tip percentage scale, and tip is not included on the check.

Caprese salad in Naples, Italy
Tiramisu made at Villa Ida
Zucchini blossoms prepared at a cooking class in Villa Ida

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The highlights of my experience so far have been touring Herculaneum, an ancient town buried by the volcanic ash of Mt. Vesuvius in 79 A.D., attending a cooking class at the Villa Ida, a family-owned villa in Sorrento, and learning Italian in class (which I have put to use while conversing with locals). Herculaneum, my favorite excursion so far, once contained a 700 year old civilization, full of advancements such as day spas, water systems, fast food, businesses, advertisements, places of worship, marriage and divorce customs, and government. Witnessing firsthand the excavated Roman sculptures, jewelry, mosaics, ceramics, and writings was an unbelievable experience, as was observing the grotesque sight of skeletons of those who perished in the eruption about 2,000 years ago. The preservation of these artifacts is incredible, and I learned so much about this ancient civilization and the way they lived that by the end of our tour, I could imagine the dirt roads full, the crumbling ruins transforming into a vibrant mosaic of life, food, and culture. More traditions emerged from the Romans than I had been aware of; for example, the engagement ring. This custom originated when the Romans discovered that the ring finger contains a major vein which leads to the heart. Divorce was also created here, a contract in which either party could decide at any time that love was no longer present between the two, and the marriage should be terminated. The most astounding part of this excursion was learning that ⅓ of the city has yet to be uncovered, maintaining the mystery of this evaporated ancient civilization to be uncovered for generations to come.

The excavated Herculaneum
A snow-covered Mt. Vesuvius
Human remains discovered at the eruption site from 79 A.D.
Ancient Roman statue of mythical monster uncovered at Herculaneum
Tiled mosaic floor of a spa room in Herculaneum
Ceramic pots used to keep food hot so travelers to Herculaneum could grab some “fast food” as they went
An advertisement for wine found painted on a street wall in Herculaneum
The story of Hercules painted on the side of a temple wall in the ruins of Herculaneum