Lunchtime Reflections from the Nathaniel Russell House

In Sex and the City, Carrie Bradshaw states that when she moved to New York she bought Vogue instead of dinner because she felt like it fed her more. I can’t get onboard with this sentiment, but on our whirlwind trip through the South I chose to forgo our group lunch in search of my own metaphysical food. For a lover of all things neoclassical the renowned Nathaniel Russell House is a must-see site and it is conveniently located next to a delightful sandwich shop – sometimes you can have it all.

The historic house is in the French Quarter of Charleston and was built by wealthy shipping merchant Nathaniel Russell in 1808. Typically, when on group trips, Winterthur Fellows are chauffeured through incredible cultural institutions by the most brilliant minds in the business. Visiting the Nathaniel Russell House gave me the opportunity to take a step back and indulge in the typical visitor experience. I was shown through the house by a docent on what some may refer to as a “hallway tour,” that is to say, I was shown different rooms that were protected behind a velvet rope.

This style of guided tour has caught some criticism lately in publications like The Anarchists Guide to Historic Homes. Critics argue that the tours are generic and lack the personal engagement that visitors need to connect with historic sites. In my opinion, hallway tours are all about sharing passions. The docent that led our group was excited about specific aspects of the house and her excitement carried us through the tour and created a memorable visit. There is something magical about sharing what you think makes a place special and even in the digital age a spirited and insightful tour can create a powerful experience.

 

Peering into a room at the Nathaniel Russell house is like looking into a painting. Each space is distinctly dramatic and rich with stunning visual effects. Pine doors are painted to look like mahogany, plinths are painted deep blue to resemble lapis lazuli and trompe l’oeil ceilings convince the eye that they are draped in elaborate swags of plasterwork. The tour de force is the flying staircase that was built on the principle of cantilever allowing it to ascend from the first to third floor without any visible means of support. It is through design that these ordinary materials become extraordinary.

 

The decorative architectural elements are the only objects original to the house. Almost all of the other objects have been purchased by The Historic Charleston Foundation throughout an extensive restoration effort that began in 1955 when the foundation purchased the property. This means that the objects were selected to reflect a particular time and place. The docent made it clear that they are representations intended to showcase design and do not dictate a particular narrative. This allows for a broader interpretation of the space outside of the family’s narrative and showcases the role of decorative arts in Charleston. For example, the Chinese export porcelain in a double peacock and peony pattern that rests on a Charleston-made mahogany dining room table says more about Charleston than the Russells’ taste. Aside from the fact that these dishes are opulent, bright, and visually interesting, they express the global influences that have made the port city, Charleston, a melting pot for centuries.

 

Visiting the Nathaniel Russell House is more like eating dessert than lunch. It is a beautiful place filled with beautiful things and presented to visitors by knowledgeable docents. And the house continues to get better. The Historic Charleston Foundation is currently constructing a space that will attest to the experiences of the eighteen enslaved men and women who lived in the Nathaniel Russell House. Expanding the narrative will help to enhance visitors understanding of this incredible historic site.  I can’t wait to visit again.

 

By Carrie Greif, WPAMC Class of 2019