Phantastic Philly
What’s the best way to explore the history and culture of a new city? Trying its food, of course!
The WPAMC Class of 2017 recently explored Philadelphia’s history and cuisine as part of their class, Early American Material Life. The tour through the city by Ritchie Garrison, Catharine Dann Roeber, and program graduate Tiernan Alexander provided snapshots of life in historical Philadelphia. Ranging from its founding in 1683 to the dispersion of immigrants throughout the 19th and 20th centuries, these talks were wonderful introductions for many of the students to one of America’s most culturally significant cities!
Our introduction to Philadelphia began with a walk around Welcome Park, near Penn’s Landing.
Our day in Philly began with a primer on the city’s layout in Welcome Park. Ritchie’s hands-on teaching had us arranged around the park in a half-circle, just as the original city had developed along the Delaware River. Philadelphia was deliberately founded far up the Delaware- too distant for pirates to bother the pacifist Quakers. The planning of Philly also mirrored the proposed redevelopment of London after the Great Fire of 1666.
Armed with understanding William Penn’s dream and design for the city, we then worked our way south to Elfreth’s Alley to unabashedly gawk at Philadelphia’s most historic street. Maintaining an interpretation of how the Quaker City looked during the 18th century, Elfreth’s Alley seemed to be something of a relic among Philadelphia’s skyscrapers and highways.
Though not really ‘America’s Oldest Street’, Elfreth’s Alley does indeed preserve the spirit of 18th century Philadelphian life.
As we soon discovered, though, additional remnants of 18th and 19th century city life remained hidden in plain sight. Though covered in the trappings of modern life, many century-old warehouses still stand humbly amidst newer buildings.
Following our walk through Elfreth’s Alley, we visited Christ Church, the Philadelphia Quaker Meetinghouse, and Independence Hall.
(Above) Founded in 1695 as part of the Church of England, Christ Church was the tallest building in the United States between 1754 and 1810. (Below) The Arch Street Friends Meeting House has changed little in its 200 years of continuous use.
After exploring these famous buildings, we met up with program graduate Tiernan Alexander for a very different type of tour. A professional Philly tourguide, Tiernan led our group through the city’s famous Italian market district. As the Class of ’17 quickly discovered, Tiernan’s tour route included sampling many of the Italian Market’s famous shops!
Our class (perhaps the happiest I’ve ever seen them) began the culinary tour with lunch at Paesano’s. Voted one of the ‘Best of Philly,’ my fellow students would certainly attest to Paesano’s delicious sandwiches. From Paesano’s, our group charged the cheese shop of Di Bruno Brothers, the tortilla shop of Tortilleria San Romana, Cardena’s Oil and Vinegar Taproom, and Isgro Pastries. Between bites, we learned about the dispersion of immigrants throughout South Philadelphia and the markets that sprung up around their communities. These markets were founded by entrepreneurial Italians who transported produce from the city’s ports and sold them to the more inland inhabitants.
(Above) Stopping by Di Bruno Brothers Cheese Shop had all of us (Ritchie included) cheesing for the camera! (Below) Popping into Cardena’s Oil & Vinegar Taproom with Tiernan had us popping open many of the delicious vats of olive oil and balsamic vinegar for sampling!
Descending into a mass food coma, we somehow managed to follow Catharine a few blocks to one of her favorite spots in Philadelphia: the Fleisher Art Memorial. Located rather appropriately on Catharine Street, the Fleisher Memorial is a stunning Romanesque Church repurposed as a community art center. Offering classes and a space for artists in its cavernous interior, the Fleisher Memorial has made art education accessible for residents of the area for nearly a century.
Art and religion? Why not! the Samuel S. Fleisher Art Memorial offers art classes for free to adults and children alike. Tiernan and the Class of 2017 were apparently rendered solemn by the old church’s gravitas.
Our final stop was at the Old Swedes Church, or Gloria Dei, in Southwark. Founded by Pennsylvania’s earliest European settlers—the Swedes—around 1698, the Old Swedes Church is Pennsylvania’s oldest church. Though unfortunately unable to enter the church proper, we listened to a splendid talk from Tiernan about the church’s location right on the water. In fact, much of today’s route 95 would have been underwater in the 17th and 18th centuries!
Pennsylvania’s oldest church was founded by a Swedish parish at the end of the 17th century.
By the end of our trip to Philadelphia, Winterthur’s Culture ’17 fellows were far more knowledgeable about urban planning and growth than before. One of the program’s many strengths, of course, is our proximity to so many incredible places of early American history. Our study of American decorative arts would simply have been incomplete without a trip to Philadelphia. Additional visits to the city are likely, but until then, our memories of the incredible tours (and food) of good ol’ Philly will have to suffice!
All together now! The WPAMC ’17 class posing in front of Independence Hall.
By Trevor Brandt, WPAMC Class of 2017
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