Submitted by Alexia Stock on the 2019 winter session program in Ghana sponsored by the Department of Political Science and International Relations…
The first topic of concern when you land in Ghana is their time zone – GMT. It is 5 hours ahead of the east coast, but the locals refer to it as Ghana Maybe Time. As a wonderful speaker shared with us, “a minute is 100 seconds, an hour is 100 minutes” to the regular Ghanaian. As a highly punctual person, I laughed along, praying this disregard for schedules was a joke, but alas, it was not.
The general Ghanaian attitude builds off this relaxed approach to events. As we read about the independence and formation of Ghana, the common citizen’s perspective was that “it will all be worked out in the end.” Whether about the success of their crop, the reformation of their government, or their general lifestyle, Ghanaian people continue to go with the flow. This flexibility helps build an amazing and refreshing national attitude that has lent resilience and power to their community throughout much of history.
On our first full day in Ghana, we took a tour around Greater Accra, the capital, to view the great military, political, and social landmarks that represent Ghanaian pride. Our tour guide shared a particularly telling story of the Ghanaian people and their interaction with the Dutch at the Christiansborg Castle in Osu, Accra. Because of their dissatisfaction with the Dutch overrule, they approached the Castle, purchased the guns off of the guard’s (as was unofficially acceptable), and then turned back and shot down the guards. Upon hearing that his men were gone, the Dutch ruler jumped out of the castle, into the ocean, and swam all the way to Jamestown (a 20 minute drive at least). The ruler returned to Europe, but later wished to return, so he offered to buy the castle back from the Ghanaian people. The Ghanaian people agreed, took the money, but never turned over the keys.
This spunk and cleverness followed through the generations leading their people for many years to recognize and resist the hands of colonial rule. The story follows that while the English once ruled from Cape Coast, they were forced out by the people because the residents refused to pay taxes on their own land and products to the British. The British then relocated to Accra, but the locals continued to resist. Ghana is unique in that it was only briefly occupied in the early 1900s through 1957, when it became the first African nation to gain independence from colonial rule. I attribute much of their successful resistance and recuperation from this strong Ghanaian spirit.
Nowadays, people here continue to call it as they see it. They hold a great disdain for the political correctness of the West, honestly voicing their opinions and observations without regard for offense. Offense is an art form here characterizing the need to be seen and present. A myriad of horns honk down the street, which appear to initially be random, but often signify a taxi’s close presence behind you if you are walking, them announcing they are making a turn or switching lanes, or recognition of their friends either in other taxis or on the street. Ghana is wonderfully connected in a way the United States lacks. Everything has a unspoken, but well known pattern from the honks and buses, to the way you welcome a person into your presence or celebrate the life of someone who has heard their “Call to Glory.”
While Ghanaian society may be very different, it is so accepting and welcoming, that even after only a short weekend excursion o a more secluded hotel, I already missed the familiar streets and faces on our wonderful Lokko Street in Osu.
