Hawaii: Big Island, Small Town

Submitted by Jennifer Saunders on the 2017 winter session program in Hawaii sponsored by the Department of Biological Sciences…

As soon as we landed in Hilo, Hawaii, on the Big Island, we all had a feeling that this would be our favorite island. No longer were there streets lined endlessly with buildings stretching far into the skies above. No longer were there masses of tourists packing large engine-heavy buses to the brim each day like clockwork. This island feels like the Hawaii I imagined: easy, relaxing, rich in culture and genuine. Here, locals are genuinely caring. Sitting next to you on the beach, they offer you water if they see you run out; they invite you into the ocean to learn how to surf; and they offer you a lift home when they see you caught in the rain midway through an afternoon run.

In fact, earlier this week, a few girls and I met a group of very friendly college-aged local surfers on the beach. They told us all about the must-see spots near us in Kona, that we needed to add to our itinerary within the next week. One of these was Kua Bay, about 30 minutes north of our condos. The following morning, we piled into the bed of their trucks (yes, that is completely legal here) and cruised the two-lane “highway” up to the bay. Throughout the drive, one of the guys riding in the back pointed out landmarks, mountains, trails and estates, acting almost as a tour guide without even noticing. The final landmark which signaled the turn for Kua Bay, they referred to as “Humps Hill,” as the mini-mountain looked just like a camel’s back—this was certainly not the technical name, but we appreciated learning some local jargon.

In Hawaii, just about all beaches are free with no beach tags and no parking fees. We pulled the trucks up to a vacant spot of volcano rubble, with our jaws dropping in awe. Nestled within the side of a cliff of lava rocks and flowers was the most beautiful beach I have ever seen. Rather than a typical long stretch of ordinary sandy beach, what lay before us was couples, families and friends nuzzled in sporadic small pockets of pure white sand available within the maze of volcanic debris. The waves crashed into a crystal clear cove, for both surfing and body boarding…which is exactly what the locals taught us: how to swim, surf and experience Hawaii with our heart.