Submitted by Claire Danberg on the 2017 winter session program in Hawaii sponsored by the Department of Biological Sciences…
As we drove up the side of the mountain, I could feel my ears pop from the elevation. Once we reached the visitors center, we parked the car and as I stepped out, I could feel my breath shorten. Already at an altitude of 9,391 feet, we had not even begun our ascent up. Like anyone hiking in Hawaii, I was wearing shorts and a flimsy top. I immediately regretted this decision when I glanced at the thermometer which read 37 degrees. I glanced toward the peak of the mountain, an eight hour hike from where I was standing, and saw snow caps. A sign for skiing and snowboarding was to my left. Who would have thought I would see more snow in Hawaii than in Delaware? Mauna Kea Volcano is the tallest point in the Hawaiian Islands, an impressive 13,798 feet. Measured from its base beneath the ocean it is 33,476 feet whereas Mount Everest is 29,029 feet.
We had to hike fast if we wanted to catch the sunset views. In Oahu, the trails we hiked were like rain forests covered in luscious green leaves with waterfalls around every corner, but the terrain on Mauna Kea reminded me of scenes from The Martian, dusty and barren from volcanic ash. The hike was treacherous with forty percent less oxygen than at sea level. As we reached our stopping point, I could not believe the views. We were higher than the clouds and as the sun reflected off of them, it was as if we were floating. We stayed for half an hour and watched the sunset in breathtaking silence. Mesmerized by the views, I didn’t realize how cold my fingers were until we had begun our quick descent.
As darkness fell over the mountain it became clear why the largest observatory in the world rests on Mauna Kea. The stars shine incredibly bright at that altitude especially without any nearby city lights. The island’s isolation also makes the astronomical site less susceptible to air pollution. For this reason, the research done there is funded by thirteen countries. Mauna Kea, which means white mountain, is the most sacred spot in Hawaii. In ancient times, only the Kings could travel to the top because according to tradition the Gods live on the volcano.
It was remarkable to have the opportunity to travel to the volcano and see its views, but at the same time I felt a connection to the natives while at Mauna Kea. The Hawaiian people believe the grounds to be holy and it is not hard to see why. Many Hawaiians protest the observatory for degrading the Hawaiian culture and obstructing the natural landscape of the mountain. As I looked out at the sunset on the clouds, I was torn. The view was so beautiful, I wished everyone could see it, yet preserving the volcano in its natural state seemed a nobler pursuit.
