Submitted by Gabriella Cammarata on the 2022 spring semester program in London, England…
This week, my Analyzing and Exploring the Global City London class took us to the Victoria and Albert Museum. Our assignment was to choose a specific object at the V&A which displays and represents the interaction between London and the wider world…I chose Harry Styles’ cardigan. My chosen subject illustrates aspects of London’s identity as an imperial and global city because of the viral DIY challenge that it sparked. JW Anderson’s knitted cardigan was worn by Harry Styles in rehearsals for Today, NBC in February 2020. This patchwork cardigan debuted pre-pandemic, but as the pandemic unfolded and lockdowns were introduced, thousands of fans were inspired to make and share their own cardigans. Online content producer and artist, Liv Huffman, sparked the challenge after crocheting her own version of the cardigan and posting it to social media. This encouraged JW Anderson to share a free downloaded pattern and tutorial on his website. The object was located in the fashion gallery and is displayed on a mannequin alongside Liv Huffman’s take, as well as other sweater-type items. The V&A describes the cardigan as a “neutral, playful and experimental approach to fashion.” Not only does the piece distinguish Styles as an artist, but it has also influenced an entire generation. He is constantly pushing cultural boundaries, sparking worldwide controversy, but also eliciting creativity and a sense of community online, even during a period of isolation. This object reveals that the global networks in which art and culture are produced and distributed do not have to be mainstream or “basic” to generate a response. The gallery in which it is located also provides insight into how the V&A contributes to London’s global character. The V&A has clearly understood the power and influence of social media both now and even more so in the future. Including a worldwide phenomenon created by a British designer and popularized by a British musician in a coveted British museum proves the appreciation and acceptance of the globalization of today’s fashion culture that has shaped and evolved our modern world for the better.
