Dominica: Hike to Boiling Lake

Submitted by Evan Driscoll on the 2018 winter session program in Dominica sponsored by the Department of Geography and Department of Applied Economics and Statistics…

Yesterday, we hiked to the Boiling Lake which is considered a must-see for those visiting Dominica. Its name is quite literal–the water is boiling due to volcanic activity underneath. The name isn’t just a flashy title meant to attract visitors, the water was boiling hot and we were not allowed to get too close to it. Dominica actually has the highest concentration of volcanic activity in the world!

We began the 10-mile hike at 8:00 AM in the mist, and would end up returning seven and a half hours later! A few hours into the hike, we reached the summit of the trail, and we got there just in time to see the spectacular view before the fog set in and we were completely surrounded by a white shroud. We stood at the peak of the mountain, unable to see anything, but the ground directly below us. It felt as though we were in the middle of nothingness which was a very odd sensation.

Continuing on, we reached the Valley of Desolation. The Valley of Desolation is an area full of sulfurous rocks and volcanic activity underfoot. Steam rose from many spots in the ground and a river ran through the bottom of the ravine. We had to be careful crossing by water, as it was very hot. It was difficult to traverse as the rocks often crumbled under our feet, but I thought it made the hike all the more fun.

To me, the Valley of Desolation was very unnerving. It felt other-worldly since the rocks were all different shades of oranges yellows and whites, the sulfur smelled of rotten eggs, the water was boiling hot and  a thick mist covered the air above us. I thought I was on a different planet, everything in front of me was different from anything I’d ever seen before. Something about the way everything was incongruous with my past experiences made me tense.

Although the valley was a bit odd, it was amazing to experience. It was incredible to walk through something that contrasted so greatly with other nature that I’ve seen. It was truly spectacular.

We reached the Boiling Lake four hours into the hike. Giant plumes of steam rose up from below, and it was difficult to see the lake due to the mist. Periodically, the wind would blow just right and we would be able to see the lake in full. The water was pale and cloudy and there was a giant geyser in the center where water pushed to the surface. Vapor surrounded the lake and the acrid smell of sulfur filled the area. The air was hot and we were able to view the lake from an overlook, which is where we ate our lunch.

The return hike was a bit easier, and we finished the hike at Titou Gorge. Titou Gorge is a river area where you can swim through a ravine and eventually reach the waterfall at the end. The water was definitely the coldest I’ve experienced in Dominica, but it was worth it when we reached the end. A large waterfall gave way to a strong current, though we were able to swim against it enough to reach a small shelf where we could sit and take in the beautiful scene.

We later returned to the hotel, where I promptly ate dinner and collapsed on my bed.

Trail to the Boiling Lake
Rocks in the Valley of Desolation
Valley of Desolation
Geyser in the Valley of Desolation
Boiling Lake
River in the Valley of Desolation