Imposter: The Truth About Italian Cuisine

Submitted by Madison Thieret on the 2018 winter session program in Italy sponsored by the College of Health Sciences and the College of Arts and Sciences…

Penne pasta and meatballs. Succulent chicken Parmesan garnished with a generous handful of mozzarella. These are, but a few of the numerous dishes regarded as “staple” entrees at Italian American restaurants. When I arrived at my study abroad location site last week, this was the type of fare I fully anticipated to gorge on for the duration of the program. Situated between the Adriatic coast and the border of Slovenia, Trieste is the capital city of the Friuli Giulia region in northeast Italy. The territory and bustling seaport is dominated by an exotic intermingling of Italian, Slovenian and Austro-Hungarian influences. Such effects resonate throughout both the city’s architectural design, as well as its culinary spreads. Research conducted prior to departure should have been the first indication that my expectations were greatly amiss. The Mediterranean utopia that shrouds most Americans’ perceptions of classic realism cuisine came to fruition during a discussion with our site managers, Max and Katia. A group dinner was held at a quaint, family-owned trattoria. Here our party was greeted with a typical antipasti plate of local salamis, prosciutto, and Parmesan and mozzarella cheeses.  The waitress fluttered about the room, an assortment of three entrees resting upon her serving tray.  She presented each guest with a hearty portion of lasagna, comprised of hand-rolled noodles, meat, and FOUR cheese varieties.  Afterwards, we were invited to sample gnocchi and spaghetti ragout.  The bread baskets stationed at various points along the table failed to run dry.  While we feasted on savory Triestine cooking, a colleague noted that these choices would never appear on an “Italian” eatery in the United States.  Our interests piqued, the group began to suggest foods oft-prepared at home or at ubiquitous chain restaurants.  The conclusions garnered were disturbing; many a heart was broken that fateful night.  Meatballs have no place on Mediterranean menus; in fact, neither they, nor the American concept of garlic bread exist in Italy! Classic side dishes to any pasta plate, the origin of the meatball hails from Swedish tradition, while garlic bread is Irish.  Beloved white sauce dishes, such as fettucine Alfredo, too, are not standard Italian offerings.  Marinara and ragouts, recognized as time-honored red sauces, frequently enrobe the homemade noodles.  Chicken parmigiana, a personal favorite of my family and me, will not at anytime be found listed on the carte du jour of any cozy traditional Italian osteria.  While I have certainly attained a great deal of information regarding European culture in the past week, I presume this was the most unanticipated revelation thus far.  Everything we Americans currently hold to be true about Italian food has been a lie.  Just a penne for your thoughts.

A sampling of a traditional antipasti platter. When served at an American eatery, this course would be the equivalent to an hors d’oeuvre. Clockwise from top: in-house produced salami; prosciutto; Parmesan cheese; and mozzarella cheese.
Hearty lasagna served at the family-owned trattoria. Ingredients include hand-rolled noodles, rich marinara sauce teeming with meat, and an indulgent blend of four cheeses.

 

Gnocchi in a savory meat ragu. The term gnocchi is thought to be derived from nocca, the Italian word for knuckles. Generally associated with northern Italy, the most infamous potato dumplings adored by food-enthusiasts world-wide date back to the seventeenth century, well after Spanish conquistadors introduced potatoes from South America to Italian kitchens. Each region, especially in the north, maintains its own gnocchi variation, indicated by a unique preparation and serving style.